‘Most homes have televisions,’ points out Santosh, a guide from Reality Tours, as we squeeze down a narrow lane in Mumbai’s Dharavi slums. He turns to me and smiles: ‘So nobody works when Mumbai play cricket.’
Even in cricket-mad India, this is hard to believe. Dharavi is a thriving centre of industry and raw entrepreneurial spirit, a sprawling temple to a sort of distilled capitalism – but it’s also a place for dreamers. You don’t leave your village to come and live in slum conditions unless you’re chasing something.