The northwestern corner of Costa Rica is one of the most biodiverse areas of the world, so it’s essential that when a new ultra-luxury property arrives, it takes care not to trample on the region’s outstanding natural beauty. In that respect, Nekajui, which opened earlier this year, is a tour de force. The first Ritz-Carlton Reserve in Central America, and only the eighth in the world, stretches over 570 hectares of lush cliffside, but if you gaze up towards it from the sapphire waters below, you can barely tell it’s there at all. This impressive sleight of hand is pulled off thanks to thoughtful biophilic design that includes a dramatic hanging bridge over a verdant canyon, a bar suspended in a tree house and a funicular that runs like a glass elevator down to a secluded sandy cove.

What’s on your doorstep?

Nekajui is the newest resort on the exclusive Peninsula Papagayo, a 1,400-acre promontory jutting into the Pacific that first came to the attention of luxury travellers with the opening of a Four Seasons 20 years ago. There are also a handful of private homes, including one by the noted architect Antoine Predock. 70 per cent of the peninsula remains protected from any sort of development and is covered by a tropical dry forest that teems with thousands of plant and animal species. At Nekajui, it’s not unusual to see brightly coloured birds taking up a perch beside the pools or to spot howler monkeys breakfasting in the treetops below the balconies. The hotel works closely with local guides Papagayo Explorers, who can arrange zip-lining, kayaking and forest tours. On a morning hike with lead naturalist Jhonny Hernandez, we breathlessly observed the remarkably coordinated courtship dance of the long-tailed manakin. ‘This,’ whispered Hernandez, ‘is a real Nat Geo moment.’

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The Los Angeles bar scene is as tough to neatly condense and define as the sprawling city itself. Diverse neighbourhoods jumble together side by side, each with its own sense of style and history, not to mention distinctive flavour palettes. A night out in the City of Angels can shift between contrasting backdrops quicker than a busy actor changes roles.

One thing that does unite this disparate city is Southern California’s abundant wealth of world-class fresh ingredients, which means cocktail menus are often updated to keep pace with the rhythms of the local farmers’ markets. It’s also true that wherever you go in this town, agave is king. The popularity of tequila and mezcal-based drinks has far outpaced their vodka-based equivalents.

From gritty downtown to historic Hollywood and the rarefied environs of Bel-Air and Beverly Hills, here are the very best places in Los Angeles to enjoy expertly-made drinks in artfully curated surroundings.

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On a recent sun-kissed afternoon in midtown Los Angeles, around 100 art-lovers gathered for a guided walkthrough of the new Diane Arbus retrospective at blue chip dealer David Zwirner’s flagship 30,000 sq ft gallery. When the event was over, they spilled out in every direction into the heart of one of the most exciting and fast-developing art districts anywhere in the world. In just a handful of years, the radical transformation of the blocks around the intersection of Melrose and Western Avenues has proved an old adage wrong. It used to be said that nobody walks in LA. These days, there are few better places to spend a day wandering around than amid the galleries and restaurants of Melrose Hill. ‘You can come here, park, have a nice lunch and go see seven different art shows,’ says Fernberger gallery owner Emma Fernberger. ‘That’s amazing.’

The area’s rapid reinvention didn’t happen by accident. Historically home to rows of furniture warehouses, the neighbourhood was hit hard when online retailers devoured much of the market and those traditional businesses moved out. Actor and developer Zach Lasry, the son of billionaire businessman and former Milwaukee Bucks owner Marc Lasry, noticed the untapped potential whenever he visited his then-girlfriend, now-wife Arianna, who lived on nearby Wilton Place. Beginning in 2019, he and his family bought 18 buildings within a three-block radius.

‘The architectural rhythm reminded me of the Bowery in New York, where you have all these old buildings lined up,’ says Lasry. ‘The Bowery was all restaurant supply stores, so it was a single-use street for a certain industry. This was similar because it was furniture row. It seemed like it had the right mix of location and building stock that it could become something really, really fun.’

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In Los Angeles, the city of perpetual youth, places with genuine history are worth clinging on to – a sentiment felt all the more in the wake of the recent wildfires. The Georgian Room, an intimate, sophisticated steakhouse tucked away beneath Santa Monica hotel icon The Georgian is one such rare gem. If it feels like a discreet speakeasy that’s because it really was one once upon a time, first opening its doors in 1933 right at the tail end of the prohibition era and becoming a favoured beachside hangout of mobster Bugsy Siegel and movie stars Clark Gable and ‘Fatty’ Arbuckle alike. Today, thanks to a gorgeous renovation completed in 2023, it serves up both Hollywood Golden Age nostalgia and contemporary elegance.

It’s hard to miss The Georgian. The towering turquoise Art Deco hotel has been known as Santa Monica’s first lady since it went up almost a century ago, becoming one of the very first skyscrapers on Ocean Boulevard. Slip around to the right and down a flight of stairs and you’ll find The Georgian Room hidden behind a set of doors with distinctive mermaid-shaped handles.

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In a city where you’re rarely further than a drunken stumble from a world-class taco truck and even A-list actors celebrate winning their Oscars by feasting on In-N-Out burgers, it can sometimes seem like casual food is king. Yet the truth is, Los Angeles has a rich and thriving fine dining scene with more than its fair share of high-end restaurants where exciting, innovative dishes are the real stars. So whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or simply in the mood for a Michelin-approved meal you won’t soon forget, remember the wise words of the anthropomorphic French candlestick who became a Hollywood icon singing: ‘If you’re stressed, it’s fine dining we suggest…’ Be our guest and enjoy the best fine dining establishments in Los Angeles.

Ardor

The Sunset Strip is a storied stretch of West Hollywood famous for debauched rock clubs, riotous bars and historic hotels, but it hasn’t always been a go-to destination for fine dining. That changed most recently in 2019 with the opening of Ardor at the West Hollywood Edition which delivers a vegetable-forward take on California cuisine. The restaurant itself, designed by British minimalist architect John Pawson, is sleek and modern, lined with lush greenery, and the plates are just as elegantly designed. The tower of tempura onion rings arrives perfectly seasoned, while the fluffy milk bread with beefsteak tomato is delightful whether or not you choose to dip it in the creamy king crab ballerine. For dessert, don’t leave without trying the pineapple arroz con leche. The Sunset Strip may no longer be as rambunctious as in its 1970s heyday, but these days it’s delivering a higher class of culinary thrills.

Providence

Providence is the real deal. First opened in 2005 and the proud owner of two Michelin stars since 2008, this James Beard Award-winning restaurant is deservedly renowned for its spectacular and imaginative seafood-tasting menu. Their attention to detail is apparent from the moment you step off Melrose Avenue and take the plunge into the deep blue somewhere of the recently revamped interior. Glass ‘sea cloud’ installations by the Parisian artist Jeremy Maxwell Wintrebert seem to drift overhead above moonlit seascapes by San Diego painter Peter Halasz. The establishment’s admirable commitment to sustainability is evidenced by the rooftop habitat garden that produces herbs, salads and honey.

The latter makes an appearance in the sublime Bee’s Sneeze cocktail, one highlight of the excellent bar which also boasts one of the city’s finest whisky collections. All of this helps set the stage for chef Michael Cimarusti’s ever-evolving tasting menu, which currently includes highlights such as a delicate uni tartlet with tsukudani and French butter and a miniature lobster roll with white truffle and caviar. For those who enjoy a show with their dinner, it’s possible to reserve a seat in the chef’s tasting room which offers a live view of Cimarusti and his team at work. One of the true can’t-miss restaurant experiences in Los Angeles.

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The old stereotype that Los Angeles is a shallow place obsessed with appearance and ephemeral beauty doesn’t hold much water when measured against the impressive number of world-class museums the city has to offer. Not only are the following institutions filled with fascinating treasures, artefacts and artworks from around with world, they’re often based in truly beautiful buildings in their own right, and home to relaxing gardens, sun-kissed courtyards and unparalleled views. These are the museums that are not-to-be missed in the City of Angels.

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Los Angeles might be most readily associated with Hollywood’s celluloid dreams, but it’s also heaven for art collectors. The city is dotted with a panoply of contemporary galleries, ranging from purpose-built spaces to converted studios and strip-malls. Here you’ll find emerging American artists side-by-side with the best international talent, and museum-quality collections vying for room beside urgent and thought-provoking street art. Los Angeles, famously, is a patchwork of contrasting scenes and neighbourhoods, but one thing that unites them all is that this has always been a place to see and be seen. That’s never been more true than at these trailblazing art galleries.

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